All the Shades of Gray
It’s said a woman’s hair is their crowning glory. Sooner or
later, that crown will start to gray. You now face a decision. Banish gray hair
with dye, or rock a silver mane? Whichever you pick, know the facts about your
gray strands to keep your hair looking and feeling its best.
Science of Grays
Your hair follicles have pigment cells that make melanin, a
chemical that gives your hair its color. As you age, these cells start to die.
Without pigment, new hair strands grow lighter and take on various shades of
gray, silver, and eventually white. Once a follicle stops making melanin, it
won’t make colored strands again.
When and Why It
Happens
You might blame your stressful job or your unruly teens for
your grays. But it’s mostly your genes that dictate how early and how quickly
it happens. So if either of your parents had a full head of gray hair in their
30s, there’s a good chance you will, too.
How Race Plays a Role
On average, white people start to gray in their mid-30s.
Asians start in their late 30s. And African Americans usually don’t see color
changes until their mid-40s.
What’s Premature
Gray?
Some people go gray 10 or more years earlier than the
average person does. It’s premature if you’re gray before:
20 if you’re white
30 if you’re African American
Do Health Problems Turn Hair Gray?
They could. These conditions include:
Lack of vitamin B12
Certain rare, inherited tumor conditions
Thyroid disease
Vitiligo is a condition that destroys pigment-making cells in
the scalp
Alopecia areata causes patches of hair (usually ones with
color) to fall out. This can look like sudden graying because the hair that’s
left is gray or white. When your hair regrows, it could be gray, white, or your
normal color.
Does Stress Make You
Go Gray?
Not directly. But it can cause a condition that causes your
hair to shed about 3 times faster than normal. It’s possible that when your
hair grows back, it’s gray instead of your original color.
The Smoking Link
Lighting up affects your body from head to toe. That
includes the hair on your head. One study showed that smokers are 2 1/2 times
more likely to gray before age 30 than nonsmokers. It also can make silver gray
look yellow.
To Pluck or Not to
Pluck …
There’s an old wives’ tale that says if you pluck a gray,
three will grow back. That doesn’t happen. Still, don’t pluck. You’re just
delaying the inevitable -- another gray strand will replace it. Besides,
pulling hair out can damage follicles so much, they no longer grow hair. This
can make your mane look thin over time.
Do Grays Feel
Different?
Gray hair is thinner than hair with natural color because
its cuticle is thinner. Your hair needs that natural protection from water,
ultraviolet rays from the sun, humidity, chemicals, and heat styling. Without
that barrier, your hair loses water. So your gray will feel dry, fragile, and
coarse. African American hair tends to be more prone to damage, compared to
that of Asians and whites.
Tame Those Tresses
Moisture treatment and hair oils can fight dull, dry grays. Anti-frizz
products can help, too. Heat and light from lamps or the sun can “bleach” gray
hair and make it look yellow. Ask your stylist how to prevent this. A
purple-toned shampoo can help keep your tresses a vibrant silver.
Special Care for
African-American Hair
Black people’s hair usually is thinner, drier, and breaks
more easily, compared to the hair of people of other races. So comb and otherwise
treat it gently, especially if you use chemicals to relax your hair. Add
moisture with a light conditioner that penetrates your hair shafts, instead of
lanolin or other oily treatments that simply coat the strands.
No-Dye Camouflage
If you’re sporting just a few gray hairs, you can hide them
if you get creative. Wear a pretty headband. Or switch up your hairstyle --
part it where there is less gray. If you have long hair, wear an updo to hide
gray roots.
Or, Just Dye It!
You can do it yourself with a box from the drugstore. Look
for products designed for gray hair. The permanent dye will better cover stubborn
roots than a semi-permanent color. If you can afford it, opt for a color
treatment at your local salon. If some of your grays won’t take in the color,
try using a lighter shade that will blend in with the grays.
Herbal Cover-Up
If you worry about the damage from chemical dyes, consider
using natural henna. It can add red, brown, or black sheen to any texture of
hair. Powdered pigments from the leaves of the henna plant can work well to
camouflage your gray roots.
Go Au Naturel
If you’re ready to ditch the dye, you can go gray gracefully
while it grows out. Ask your stylist how much gray you actually have. If it’s a
lot, you can go lighter through highlights to minimize grow-out. Or, you can
switch from a permanent color to a less opaque demi color, which can make your
gray strands mimic highlights and blend in better with the rest of your hair.
Get the Right Cut
Rock a great cut with lots of style and texture, and get a
trim every 6-8 weeks. Women who are 100% gray often wear their hair short. But
consider long layers. They can be beautiful and add movement to healthy, bouncy
hair.
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